Cooking and eating through a new culture

Archive for the tag “eating”

Lubnan: A Hankering for Hummus

I started this blog because, well…it’s fun chronicling and consuming my way through Costa Rica, but also I found such a lack of information (and misinformation) about what was out there in term of the whole gastronomic experience. I mean, who the hell writes for Lonely Planet and when was the last time they updated their CR food section?  Frommers is no better either, and they have a puny restaurant guide too. So for those of you who are making a go at it here in CR, regardless of where you originated from, let me tell you… Costa Rica is poised to be the culinary capital of Central America. I truly believe that. So keep reading my posts, and I will prove it too.

For instance, who would have thought, here in downtown San Jose, you could get Lebanese food! Ok…the surprise may not be the place itself, but how I now crave grilled lamb. From the outside, it’s a nondescript little place tucked on Passo Colon, the main (and freshly paved!) road into downtown. It’s easy to miss and even harder to park, but if you can overcome those tiny little obstacles, it’s worth it.

Inside, you are transported to another world of fez wearing waiters luring you into the dimly lit, cozy dinning area. There you can sit at tables or cushions on the floor (better to smoke your hookah) and be lulled by the exotic sounds of a kanun. Or was it a rebab? Either way, you are far from the craziness of the Central Valley. I am not an expert on Lebanese food, but I know I like it. So if your mediterranean tastes are more defined than mine feel free to pick one of the dishes off the menu. BUT if like myself, it all looks so damn good, go for the mezza entre. This meal is listed for two, but easily serves more. It is basically a table full of all that is on the menu, served in small dishes.

Fantastic Falafel

And when I say table full, I’m not kidding. There had to be 16 dishes of hot and cold items, not to mention a big basket of pita, covering our table and everything was fresh and flavorful. Rafa and I have always been the couple that swaps plates mid meal, but with the mezza, all you do is share and nibble and drink and just enjoy. Few more glasses of wine, and I would have been sharing with the table next to me too. I could graze on the mezza at least one a week.

So if tabbouleh, baba ghanoush, kibbeh, luscious lamb, and grilled kabobs make you drool, make some reservations and hump down there (get it!…camel…hump….nevermind).

Paseo Colón, Cs. 22-24, Paseo Colón, San José, 10103

2257-6071 (Don’t even bother with thier Facebook page. It sucks.)


The Panama Parallel

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Yea we’re runnin’ a little bit hot tonight I can barely see the road from the heat comin’ off of it.

Sorry. Still got the song in my head. Seriously, how can you not be happy in Panama. Granted, when the friends you are staying with have a palatial home overlooking the valley, not to mention a sweet little private rental on the ocean too, its tough to wipe the dopey smile off my face. I had an amazing time, with amazing people. It’s not often that things work out so beautifully, and you have no idea how thankful I am they did.

Certainly, the whole trip got me thinking. I am seriously smitten with Panama but it was funny to observe the differences between the two countries. Now, I never got to go into Panama City. I bounced between the highlands and the ocean, so this is not a comprehensive view. So keep that in mind. I’m still getting my bearings in Costa Rica and it’s been over a year and a half.

The first thing that really struck me was how puny the local farmers market was as compared to Costa Rica. Not only small, but not necessarily that fresh either. On the rare occasion I saw brocoli, it was brown and limp. Even the fruit was off, or should I say, not to Costa Rican standards. I was baffled. Here I was in the middle of this amazing tropical valley, and the mangos looked nasty and a guanábana cost over $5!  Go into a local grocery and you will see endless amounts of canned food from every corner of the world and a teeny space for fresh produce. I needed an explanation and this was the consensus:

Because of the canal, Panama can import food cheaper than it is to grow and because they can import anything, what you get is an enormous amount of shelf stable food. Add to that, Panamanians don’t seem to eat fresh vegetables either. It’s a very starch based diet; yucca, potatoes, yams, cassava, some pasta and tons of rice. Even the ubiquitous red peppers (chili dulce) were absent in Panama. The protein is chicken/eggs, or fish. I saw little beef and next to no pork.  My recommendation to the traveler coming to Panama, go for the fish. They may not grow a lot but they certainly know how to fish and I had some amazing seafood. Also surprising, I thought the street food was rather…meh. Think lots of rather bland starch and canned meat.

Overall, Costa Rica has a wider diet, better fresh selection, and many more options for those who are conscientious eaters. People raved about Panama being cheaper, but in the long run (and because I don’t really eat a lot of shelf stable food) I found prices to be about equal, if not more for certain fresh products. While doing a grocery run with my hosts, I commented on how cheap booze was. It’s nearly half the price it is in Costa Rica with double the selection. I saw a bottle of excellent Scotch $20 cheaper than in the US! As explained by my friends…that is why people are so happy in Panama. The US influence in Panama is evident everywhere, especially in the developement of infrastructure. Panama just looks nicer. Then again, I am hanging out with great people, drinking good booze, swimming in the ocean, trekking through the jungles, having an amazing time…what’s not to love!

As I set back to Costa Rica, the rainy season started. The trip back was uneventful. I wore the Panama hat I bought for Rafa’s birthday as I bobbed around the bus station looking for him over the groggy throngs and eager taxi drivers. I am so happy when I see him I nearly cry.

“I didn’t see you get off the bus,” he says squeezing me,  “but I saw this Panama hat weaving through the crowd and I knew that was my girl.”

It’s good to be home.

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